Paradiso Rustico

Sometimes you just need to crash someone else’s vacation.  And enable them to drink heavily.  And calm them down when you miss the last train back to your town…

GoodTravelerKarma readers know that I am completely fascinated by Positano in Italy’s Amalfi Coast.  I have a beautiful picture I took of Positano on my computer desktop and I can’t tell you how many times someone has asked, “Is that the Cinque Terre?”  and then gone out to tell me a story about this beautiful place.  Both of these idyllic destinations lie on Italy’s western coast, one south and one north respectively, and are built into the hillsides.  When I found out via the power of social networking that my best friend from college’s sister, Becky, was heading to Italy and Cinque Terre, I had to invite myself along to see them.

Cinque Terre is part of what is often referred to as the Italian Riviera, the jewel of which is Portofino.  We didn’t make it to see the glitterati in Portofino but we did explore all five towns in the Cinque Terre, a much more rustic and humble place than the Amalfi Coast that lives in my heart.

“Cinque Terre” means “Five Lands” and the region is actually a national park encompassing the five towns and the surrounding hiking trails.  In years past, most tourists to the region hiked the trail that connects all five towns: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore.  Tragically, on October 25, 2011, floods and landslides devastated the two largest towns, Monterosso al Mare and Vernazza, after days of torrential rain.  The trails are now closed between Corniglia and Monterosso and the towns are busy rebuilding.  When we visited at the end of April, there was still a lot of work left in both towns, Vernazza in particular.  But this is a hardy region and one that I have no doubt will come back from tragedy.  A tribute to the spirit of this beautiful place is the art that now covers so many of the boarded doors of business, pensiones and apartments in Vernazza’s main drag.  There were two restaurants open when we were there and a gelateria with the most incredible cinnamon gelato I’ve ever tasted.  To find out more about the region and how you can support the rebuilding effort, visit

Becky and I stayed in Riomaggiore, at the opposite end from Monterosso, in a little apartment run by the fabulous Ugo.  Our favorite feature was the tiny bathtub that we affectionately called “the birdbath.”  Needless to say, after a few days in the birdbath, the power showers at our chic hotel in Milano enthralled us. 🙂

One day as we explored Corniglia, the smallest of the five towns with a population of only about 300, we discovered the epitome of paradise. At the end of the main drag of the town, there was a huge terrace with a panoramic view of the sea.  We sat, drank red wine from gelato cups and watched the sun go down until we again had to hike it back to the station to catch the last train to Riomaggiore. 

That was the night we did make it back.  The last night, we weren’t so lucky… or maybe we were. 🙂   More on that later.

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© Jennifer Konopasek and GoodTravelerKarma, 2012.


3 thoughts on “Paradiso Rustico

  1. Pingback: Nostra Terrazza della Coppa di Vino | GoodTravelerKarma

  2. Pingback: Cinque Terre Recovering | GoodTravelerKarma

  3. Pingback: Thunderstorm at the Duomo « GoodTravelerKarma

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